Bow Ties Sydney, Australia - Le Noeud Papillon - Specialists In Self Tying Bow Ties


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Sunday, January 22, 2017

James Macauslan - Also Known As The Cutter At Budd - On Shirts, Shirt Fabrics And More

This week we heard back from James Macauslan who is the cutter at renowned shirt maker Budd Shirtmakers. Over the years some of our customers have been Budd devotees and on that basis alone I wished to know more about this business and who better to ask than the cutter who knows every inch of his customer's torso and how to sculpt an impeccable shirt.

James, in the past shirting fabrics companies didn’t seem to offer so many blends but now I see cashmere/cotton, silk/cotton, linen/cotton, wool/cotton and a host of polymer based fibres which can be used in making shirting cotton. In your opinion are there any blends or single fibre fabrics that you prefer to work with and what do you prefer to wear on your back?

Once you have tried luxury fibres nothing ever compares. So I would never wear a poly-cotton, not only because there is no comparison in comfort but also because natural fibres are designed by mother nature to do a job - be it keep you warm or cool you down - and they always let your skin breath. If you spend all your time wrapped it blends with plastic you are suffocating your self and your skin will not thank you.

Although you can get so many different weaves of cotton, my personal favourite shirting is a cotton in a zephyr weave with a 170s thread count called Zephyr Soyella. It comes from a Swiss mill we use and it is so light and soft it feels as if you are not wearing anything at all.

As for blends, I love to wear cotton and cashmere in the winter and linen in the summer. They both have a very slight natural spring to them so they do not restrict the movement in the way a cotton can if the shirt is too tight. So on top of being soft to wear they also react to give you extra comfort. Any cloth that has been well woven is a dream to cut as the sheers will glide through them like butter, but personally the thicker the cloth the less it moves which makes my job easier. Something like silk and linen tends to slide around under the blades so you have to take your time to get them right.




When you set about making patterns for customers I noticed you use a knife of sorts. I have seen on cutting tables band saws, rotary blades, scissors and knives in the past but none quite like yours. Can you tell me about some of the tools a cutter deploys in the cutting room and how you go about your daily business when a new customers comes through?

The tailoring trade in London is incredibly old and passed down through generations rather than taught on mass. As a result the tools are passed from master to apprentice. The tools you have seen me using have been passed down to me from Mr Butcher who has been in the trade for 50 years and adopted them from his master. So the knives and shears I use are possibly as old as the trade itself.

We use lead weights, some of which where moulded from tobacco boxes made by tailors of old. One of mine is a lead weight for scales of old with the George the 5th stamp on it. Mr Butcher says he didn't work here long!

Our knives are used to cut the delicate parts such as collars cuffs and yokes. We cut them on a soft wood butchers block. And our knives need to be extra sharp and delicate enough to cut with precision. We struggle to find anyone that makes knives to do this so we have to spend most of our time bringing the points back on old knives. Being bespoke shirtmaker each shirt has to be exact. So there is no point in cutting big lays (more than 5 shirts at once.) which more factory makers will do using a band saw or rotary blade, this is great for getting volume done at once and making more money but not good for the precision of bespoke.

For every new customer the first thing I will get them to do is select the cloths, for our first order we need them to select at least 4. Then there is the process of taking approximately 12 measurements from the customer, including their stance and configuration into account. Once this is done we run through how they would like the shirt to fit. (Most people are under the false impression that a garment fits well if it is skintight but this is not true. A well cut garment will hang off the shoulders with the balance sitting clean (not pull or ripple anywhere) however the degree at which the shirt hugs the skin is a personal preference. The collar and cuff details and any other style details they would like are also taken into account.

The next stage would be to cut the pattern and the sample shirt, which is one of the 4 ordered. Once made, we will have a fitting see what alterations need to be made to get the fit just right. They are often minor tweaks that are needed and if so we are limited as to how many alterations we can do to a shirt, so it may be required to remake the sample to be sure the shirt is perfect.

Once we have achieved perfection I will cut the remaining shirts based on the now perfected pattern. This process is more involved than a conventional retail experience but it makes life easier for the consumer in the long run because if they change shape it is easy for us to alter the pattern and continue making shirts that fit to perfection. We look to gain life long customers rather than singular sales.

A lead weight stamped with the insignia of King George V, part of the tools handed down from master to apprentice. Weights are used to hold down cloth whilst cutting to ensure the cloth doesn't move. 


In the past I have loved wearing luxury cottons with thread counts as high as 200/2 ply but I have found that they crush after each use. In your opinion, what sort of a fabric weight should men look for in daily business shirts to get durable wear out of them?

I was once told that the wealthiest or most powerful people in the world look awful because they have no need to impress anyone. In a meeting you dress to fill the client with confidence. However if you are the one being impressed what need is there for you to dress to impress?

Comfort is your main priority. Such high quality cloth does crease but is unbelievably comfortable. I also think there is a certain charm to no one knowing your shirt is better than theirs and sitting in your own cloud of comfort. Having said that a lot of clients do get upset at the idea of shirts creasing and the best happy medium of a silk-like shirt with better durability is a 170s poplin weave. This is one of our best sellers and we all in the cutting room swear by it.

A bespoke customer pattern which will be used to mark the pattern of the of the shirt on the cloth.



Of all the weaves I have worn, very fine twills and Oxfords seem to be my favourite. What are the weaves you most like to wear yourself?

It depends on the occasion, an Oxford shirt is more casual and a twill herringbone or royal oxford are much more dressy. I tend to stick to poplin myself and will only really go for a fine twill or subtle herringbone. The cloth merchants are always playing with the weaves so every so often I see something which makes me contradict myself.

Many of the men I see on Instagram who are dressing to the nines seem to often overdo the shirt and tie combination. My understanding is you can have a busy shirt but then you need a solid tie or vice versa – but to do both is a faux pas. Can you tell our readers what are some helpful tips in matching a tie to a shirt?

You are right, a pattern on a pattern is very aggressive but to say it is a faux pas is dictatorious. Foremost, I personally believe that no one should tell other people how to dress. What we wear is our way to writing our own autobiography, and if we do not express our individuality then we are telling people we have nothing to say, no life or culture to us. A loud colour or pattern on a loud pattern is a contrast and it says you are the sort of person that doesn't colour inside the lines. If you think it is right then it is, and people telling you not to wear it are telling you how to live your life.

However, to contradict myself. Amenability is key to social standing. If you are in a meeting full of sombre people it is best to dress in a calm and inoffensive way. A navy tie on a navy suit with a crisp white shirt may be dull to some but there is so much you can play with in the sense of weaves shades and fibres that the small elements of your personality can still be portrayed.

Of course your question refers to what you have seen on Instagram where the beauty of subtlety does not come across. Lens technology has not go there for phones just yet. So as a social forum the strong contrast look is the best way to stand out and get noticed but walking down the street it might make people question your ability as a stylist.

I personally feel the best way to sand out without looking like a child's scribble is to follow tones. Be it earthy tones with a green/brown/burgundy or a conservative tone grey/blue/black. Also it is best to think about your hair skin and eye colour. Colour can play amazing tricks on the eye. To bring out a tone that matches your eye colour will make your eyes pop and people wont be able to break contact with your eyes.

There are endless tricks like this with styling I could go on forever but maybe it is best to leave on this: remember to express yourself and maybe not try so hard.

The best way to wear something is as if you are not wearing it... Said someone once.

Times have changed rapidly and in Sydney you find very few men wear cufflinks to work. Are French cuffs still popular in England or are they also on the demise?

England will always be more formal than most of the rest of the world. Cufflinks do still play a big part in our dress code although in decline with the advent of new technologies in the work force. We do far less customer facing duties as more machines do it for us, so perhaps cufflinks are less desirable as is the need to dress to impress. That and notwithstanding that men find them difficult to put on. I think it is a shame. Women get to wear all these necklaces and rings so this is our one chance to wear something shiny and precious but people just don't want to make the effort.

The world of shoes has seen a resurgence of interest in English shoe makers. Do you have a preference for one brand or maker over another and can you tell us who that is and what sorts of shoes you like to wear both during the week and on the weekends?

Oh gosh. There are so many! First and foremost one of my friends works for Fosters. I simply love their shoes and quite often get slippers made from them. Being on my feet all day I am in demand for comfortable smart shoes and dress slippers fill the void perfectly. I am currently in a fave of having slippers made in matching cloth to my suits, A four piece suit. A company called Joseph Cheeney used to be based opposite us in the arcade before moving to a bigger premises on Jermyn Street. I used to spend a lot of time looking out of  my window into theirs. I ended up buying quite a lot of Cheeney shoes! They are beautiful, and there are many others but those two come to mind first.

Being tall and thin I don't like to wear shoes that have too much of a pointed toe to them. Other than that I will wear anything. Chelsea boots (more in the winter.) brogues or monk shoes. You name it I will most likely love it.

James says he currently has an interest in trying to match the fabric of his shoe to his favourite suits. He recommends Foster & Son shoes amongst other English makers. 


If you could have any tailor in England make you a suit, who would you use and, also, what shirt would you make yourself to go with it?

Same as above, there are so many and they are all very good friends. Oddly enough during my years of study and apprenticeship I learnt a lot about making suits by working with tailors, so the suit pattern I use to make my own suits on has had the expert eye of almost every Savile Row tailor glance over it.

Kathryn Sargent is currently making one for me, A navy three piece. And when I get it I will cut a blue and red stripe shirt with a white tab collar and white cuffs. I would love my friend Nina Pendlington who works for Gieves and Hawks to make one. She is a deeply creative person and I'm sure the suit would be beautiful, smart, mental and fun, so the shirt would have to match. Stephen Hitchcock is also a great tailor,  his look is more of a relaxed soft shoulder look and he believes more than most in the craft of tailoring and putting the work into a finished suit.

Dario Carnera is an amazing cutter with possibly the best eye for the fine details of fit. Patrick Murphy is a fantastic man who like Stephen and Dario are descendants of tailors and have the craft in their blood.

This is very prevalent when you meet Patrick because he does not look you in the face but rather studies your shoulders. His eyes dart back and forth across them as you talk to him, and I get the feeling he has been doing this since he was a child. I like to think he would cut something more modern for me, so a houndstooth shirt maybe for more of a weekend suit look. I can go on like this forever and I can't favour one over the other because it would be unfair to all of my friends.

James MacAuslan
Shirt Cutter
Budd Shirtmaker's 

It's Coming Around Again - Why I Am Falling In Love With 80's Music Again



Yesterday, and also one night last week, I was asked to help some young recording artists write songs for their latest EP. These boys grew up on beaches in Western Australia, they were full energy and enthusiasm but they probably lacked some of life's experiences because of their age.

In the eighties when I grew up I fell in love with the music that was on the radio but as a child I rarely understood exactly what these artists were saying other than to be able to sing along to the chorus.

As an adult when you come back to that music and with the advent of being able to search the lyrics of any song you love within moments on the internet, you can go back to those things that you loved and gather new meanings and a new emotive power that ran through the song.

One song which I recently could not get out of my head was Carly Simon's 'Coming Around Again' which, as a young parent, seems to resonate with every couples experience that  I know of who are trying to maintain some semblance of a life whilst raising a child. And it's enormously soul re-assuring when you realise that, despite the fact that my own parents put on a good smoke-screen during those formative years of my childhood, it's nice to hear these soothing words of Carly Simon which echo long after her own role as a young mother.

I suggest, if you have time, go back to the 80's songs you love and google the lyrics, you might fall in love all over again.

And from Carly Simon:

Baby sneezes
Mommy pleases
Daddy breezes in

So good on paper
So romantic
But so bewildering

I know nothing stays the same
But if you're willing to play the game
It's coming around again

So don't mind if I fall apart
There's more room in a broken heart

You pay the grocer
You fix the toaster
You kiss the host goodbye

Then you break a window
Burn the souffle
Scream a lullaby

I know nothing stays the same
But if you're willing to play the game
It's coming around again

So don't mind if I fall apart
There's more room in a broken heart

And I believe in love
But what else can I do?
I'm so in love with you

I know nothing stays the same
But if you're willing to play the game
It will be coming around again

(Love)
Baby sneezes
(I believe in love)
Mommy pleases
(I believe in love)
Daddy breezes in
(I believe in love)

(Love)
I know nothing stays the same
(I believe in love)
But if you're willing to play the game
(I believe in love)
It will be coming around again
(I believe in love)

(Love)
I do believe, I do believe
(I believe in love)
I believe in love
(I believe in love)
I believe in love
(I believe in love)
Coming around again, coming around again

(Love)
Nothing stays the same
(I believe in love)
But if you're willing to play the game
(I believe in love)
It will be coming around again
(I believe in love)

I believe in love
(Love, I believe in love)
I believe in love
(I believe in love)
And it's coming around again
(I believe in love)

Thursday, January 19, 2017

Very Amusing - I Just Stumbled Upon Aunty Donna - The Australian Comedy Trio

Once upon a time I was the manager of the Sydney Comedy Store at Fox Studios, and at the time I was probably the youngest person to ever manage a stand-up comedy venue that size, the largest in Australia. I had tried my hand at comedy stand-up but when I felt the venue was run down I approached the then owner and asked him for the chance to re-vamp it. He saw my enthusiasm and milked it for all it was worth and a pittance of a salary. But such is the exuberance of the young, they often overlook the cunning of the older people who will gladly exploit that enthusiasm.

Janey Sweetapple, I think that was the name of the existing theatre manager at the time, who did not know about websites, internet ticketing, digital marketing etc. It was when the world was making that sluggish change from advertising in The Drum Media newspaper to new digital means such as MySpace, and Facebook was still 2 years away. I soon took her job.

In the year I spent managing the unusual temperaments of comedians and slowly exhibiting what was possibly the early stages of alcoholism, or, at the very least, alcohol dependency, I could feel myself being sucked into the world of comedy. A world of dark places where in order to conjure up the funniest and wittiest remarks you needed to have a very dark side which you went down the rabbit hole of to come up the other side holding a gag.

On the weekend I was discussing this experience, which was circa 2002, with a documentary and television producer who was delving in the world of comedy more recently. We discussed the fate of some of the comedians we both knew of and one of the sad facts about a life in comedy is that most of the comics don't make it. A handful can sell out the Enmore or the Opera House, fewer have the stamina to maintain it as a lifelong career and even fewer end up making it onto the silver screen and beyond. What is more, it's often hard to find really fresh new talent. Which brings me to my point. The said television producer asked me if I had seen the recent trio Auntie Donna - which I hadn't. His son then piped up 'Dad, it's weird, it's not funny' which immediately piqued my curiosity.

Aunty Donna is fresh talent. And though I cannot tell you why I laughed that hard, and whilst I cannot say that I found it quite as funny on my second and thirtieth viewing, it certainly is fresh and it is absurdly funny and I love that it contains a lot of humour that very much relates to Australian society. My favourite episode being the Tea Party which I post below.

Thursday, January 12, 2017

Wedding Bow Ties - That One Occasion Where You Owe It To Yourself And Your Bride To Look Good


There are few things more satisfying for me than seeing great and happy wedding photos. Especially for myself, the great reward is knowing that I have played some part in creating more beautiful and elegant wedding portraits for mantels across the country and internationally for years to come. The idea that one day I might be at a house in Colorado or Long Island or perhaps somewhere as exotic as St. Petersburg and find myself looking at a wedding portrait in a family home where the groom is wearing my bow ties - that is very rewarding.

Growing up in Australia I knew of few wedding portraits where the father had tied his own bow tie. Even my own father wore a pre-tied black Mayfair shaped velvet bow tie. 

Today, as the photos come in from wedding photos from across the globe (though the majority are Australian) , I get to sigh and be happy. 

I never got married. If I did I have roughly an idea of what I'd wear, a cream shawl lapel dinner jacket for a late Spring wedding in the country with a grosgrain silk, a black bow tie, marcella bib shirt, bow tie cufflinks in rose gold, patent leather shoes. As for what she would be wearing, I never dreamt that far..... :) 

I love a good wedding portrait and I thank all our customers who send in their photos. It makes everything you do worth while and to see hand-tied bow ties - well, you can imagine, when I started, everyone told me I had rocks in my head.

To weddings and hand-tied bow ties, I salute you!





Tuesday, January 10, 2017

Falling In Love With Shoes All Over Again

If there is one addiction that I can understand and sympathise with it's the shoe addiction that men have on Instagram. It is far more alluring than that held for watches because shoes are a very personal thing and far more influential than something as standardized as a gold wrist watch.

Yes it might cost more to own a Rolex Sky dweller, but it's even more of a luxury to have the time to get to know a shoe maker, establish a relationship, create a last and then design your own shoes. It is quite possibly the most indulgent art form since it requires, as I was told by a Sydneysider last weekend who was still waiting on a pair of Gaziano and Girling shoes 24 months later, a number of iterations to get right and most of all, patience.

Any man who just made a big chunk of money can find a fine watch dealer and put something on his wrist. Few have the time to travel and get to know a shoe maker of distinction. 

The Robb Report's Michael Stahl recently asked me to start thinking about an article on bespoke and made to order shoes and in my initial hunt for makers I fell in love, again, with George Cleverley, the esteemed London shoe maker run by the Glasgow family and whose patrons are some of the most affluent, famous and revered names from across the globe. They are located in the Royal Arcade in London's Mayfair and still make shoes the old way, from the last up.

More will follow but in the interim, here are two shoes they finished recently. Particularly on the black shoes, note the stunning toe box for which they are famous for, a chiseled forward curve with a kind of boxy look that if it had been applied elsewhere might have inspired the perfect bonnet of a coupe sports car. 

It is these kinds of small details that make those in the know, know. And if you asked a shoe or menswear enthusiast, he'd be able to spot an iconic shoe from 20 metres.

Yes, you can own a fancy watch and it sometimes it is a form of currency, but to my mind an iconic and/or custom made shoe trumps anything that ticks. 


Recent custom made work by George Cleverley, Mayfair, London

Take Some Style Tips From Dandy Wellington - Don't Be Afraid To Give Yourself Room To Move

There was a point made by the menswear style writer G. Bruce Boyer that, above all, clothes should be comfortable. I don't remember where I read that though.

I myself have often made the mistake of desperately trying to get a slender line on my body (given that I am quite out of shape) or that I would wear shoes that were too narrow for the bridge of my foot to the point of discomfort. It is my opinion that when we sacrifice comfort for the sake of style we are diminishing our individuality because we are effectively telling those that walk past us that we are willing to do anything to look good, to the point that it is unnatural.

And to be natural, means to be at ease with oneself, to flow with the nature around you. You can't do that if you are too stiff in your jeans. You can't do that if your shoulders can't move in your jacket. Which is all the more reason that G. Bruce Boyer's statement holds true - there's no point in having beautiful clothes if they make you feel uncomfortable.

The elegance of the Golden Era of the tuxedo and those photos of the sartorial splendour of the inter-war period (think Fred Astaire) often show men wearing pants that look over-sized for the wearer. Initially when Dandy Wellington came past my Studio the other week I thought the same thing. Until you see him tap dance. Then you realise that his trousers are cut to give him room to move and a freedom of movement you won't find in modern tailored clothing. His shoulders in his jacket also seemed to offer the same freedom. Only his collar seemed to be somewhat snugly fit. 

It makes sense, that as an entertainer in a jazz band, you can't play an instrument, dance or sing without using your body to swing. It would be inelegant to be watching something as flowing as jazz with an entertainer performing short staccato movements with his arms and legs. 

For 2017, taking style cues from Dandy Wellington, my aim is to not pursue silhouette as aggressively and opt more for comfort. If it's comfortable, you will wear it more. If it's comfortable, you will wear it in as many seasons as possible. If it's comfortable, you won't ever want to throw it out.

This year, give yourself some room to swing.

Dandy is wearing the Le Noeud Papillon 'Rory' bow tie above, and below the bow tie 'Guillaume'.




Saturday, January 7, 2017

You Won't Find These On Savile Row ....


We have just loaded more limited editions onto the website and added them into the sale stock. I could not recommend more highly every model that is on the image below. Each is exceptional not only in design and individuality but in the quality of the silk itself, the handle and it's ability to translate well as a bow tie. You can't find these on Jermyn Street, nor on Savile Row, not on Madison Avenue and not on Rodeo Drive. These are designed by us, made for our customers and often sold exclusively by us on www.lenoeudpapillon.com . In a world where almost all luxury brands are represented in chain malls, that is some comfort no? We want you to look different, because you are different. 



A New Limited Edition Silk Inspired By The Work Of Victor Vasarely

Just released onto the website, this silk was inspired by the art of Victor Vasarely, the grandfather of the Op Art movement. We had to tone down our aspirations because we needed men to still wear the silk and not get head spins from seeing themselves in the mirror. This is a delightful and well executed silk, not to bright, not to dull - eye catching and yet not overtly so. If you are into design and art, this bow tie will work exceptionally well on a variety of ensembles from suits to jeans and a sweater. This is a limited edition silk, so no more than 42 pieces will be made. 




Friday, January 6, 2017

If You See One Movie This Year Make It La La Land

A friend of mine is a budding film producer who left a very successful film company to do her own thing. She had suggested at one stage that I adapt a book that I love into a film but we never got past a first treatment. Such is the nature of parenthood and your dreams  - they are often at logger heads with each other.

This week she resurfaced after months of going to ground, she needed a companion to see a film with and I had read a good review somewhere about La La Land and so I said yes, though I knew from some of the publicity images that it ran the risk of being grating.

I arrived on time. She stood with tickets in her hand, two bottles of water and a box of Maltesers and as we passed the ticket clerk I said "is it a good film, what are people saying" and he returned "it's great... if you like musicals" to which I looked at my friend like "what the hell have you got me into?" 

Suddenly I was panicking about a potentially long-winded drawn out rom-com with an annoying Emma Stone and an overbearing Ryan Gosling. 

The opening sequence initially didn't help with a woman who, sitting in a traffic jam, starts singing a song to pass the time which causes a sort of flash mob to take over a Los Angeles freeway, at which point I was shifting in my seat thinking "this movie is going to go one of two ways and I am really not in the mood for 3 hours of this shit" . 

In hindsight I was looking at an absolutely brilliant opening to a superb and magnificent film which I think will be one of those films as memorable as Grease, as zeitgeist as Ghostbusters or Swingers and I am so glad my friend got me off my desk chair because by the time I shared my very real and streaming tears in the final moments of the film I felt all the warm fuzzy and tingling feelings I used to get when going to the cinema. 

La La Land is for the hopeless romantics and the ones who forgot about romance. La La Land is for those in the struggle and those that are about to throw in the towel. If you see one film this year at the cinemas, make it La La Land. 


Book Recommend - Meg Lukens Noonan 'The Coat Route; Craft, Luxury and Obsession on the Trail of a $50,000 Coat'

I have begun reading Meg Noonan's book on the 50,000 AUD vicuna coat that was made by Australian tailor John Cutler. The book is one of the better reads I have undertaken on the subject of menswear and tailoring. I have read other books, many of which concentrate on photography to prop up the words and what I find delightful about this book is that it runs off words alone and it's good enough writing so far that it doesn't require pictures.

You can buy the book here - or watch Noonan deliver a synopsis on the book below.

Happy New Year!

I was very nearly going to wear jeans and a polo on New Year's Eve owing to how hot and muggy it was with that sultry weather that was only fun if you had nothing but your board shorts on with a fan directly overhead.

But New Years Eve? What was a man to do in this weather? It just so happened that on the very same day we had a visitor at the Studio from New York, the jazz singer and dandy, Dandy Wellington. He was in town doing shows at the Sydney Opera House. 

When he came to the Studio I was in my board shorts. He was dressed in a boater hat, a striped vintage prep jacket, shirt, bow tie, trousers, socks, loafers. How did he do it? How did he not sweat?

It inspired me to step it up for NYE and so I did an all out assault. Totally over-dressed for all three parties I attended. They could all wear shirts and blazers and jeans, I was going to get some use out of my P Johnson navy tuxedo and I wasn't going to let me Albert Thurston's rot on the rack. 

To add a touch of je ne sais quoi I decided to ride to all three events on my bicycle which is an old vintage Dutch village bicycle - weighing more than 20 kilos and definitely not designer for the hills of Sydney. I was drenched in my own sweat when I pulled up to my second event, the same for my third. Only the first had I maintained composure, owing to the fact that it was at the bottom of a hill and along a flat road.

It was Dandy Wellington I must credit for having the courage to go balls deep in dress on NYE - and though I will need to get my tuxedo dry cleaned and pressed and I probably road the pants out of it, it was worth it for the car honks and the turning of heads as I sped past the the pedestrian New Year revellers in my Sunday best.

There is that too often bandied around the internet expression - you can never be over-educated or over-dressed - and for the first time I was in agreement with the latter part of that expression. It's still fun to dress well. Especially when you are getting a cream pie in your face, it makes for a better photo. 



The Winner Of The Ex-President's Portrait Prize - @Lalloydie 's Reagan

The winner of the portrait prize was not based on the most aesthetically pleasing image but rather the one that was the most clever. @Lalloydie , a woman from Sydney, devoted her Instagram handle to the her hobby and passion, making clothes for herself. She posted this portrait up with Ronald Reagan wearing our Angel bow tie during his attempted assassination with the caption "It was the Angel that saved me" . It was by far the best use of the portraits that we had done in October with the very talented illustrator Victoria Louise Watts. 

The winner will receive $500 but we have decided to award a number of the other entrants a bow tie and we will post these out some time next week. 

We hope you join us for the next competition as we hope to find something fun in 2017 to sink your teeth into.


Now On The Website

Tuesday, December 20, 2016

Final Days For Submissions For Our Ex-Presidents Bow Tie Portrait Competition

It is really very easy to enter the competition. Download the sketches from our previous post on the blog. Drag and drop a chosen bow tie from the Le Noeud Papillon website onto the portrait. Change the background. Post to your wall on Instagram. It should take you no more than three minutes if you know what you are doing. If you don't know what you are doing, maybe ask for some help. One app we recommend is Photoshop Mix which you can download from the app store. 

Final submissions should come in by midnight the 24th December 2016 AEST.

The winner will receive 500AUD cash wired to their account. Not a bad earning for three minutes of your time. But you'll need to do better than the ones below, which are pretty good if you ask me!

Merry Christmas and wishing all our blog readers and friends a happy holiday!










Wednesday, December 14, 2016

Dear Women - Here Are A Few Tips On Buying Good Presents For The Men In Your Life This Christmas

"I don't know what to buy him, he's so difficult and picky"
"I bought him a beautiful pair of slacks last year and he never wore them so I don't bother anymore and I just get him a voucher"
"I spent three days searching for him and in the end he hated the colour so I'm not doing that again"

I hear a lot of this, especially women coming to the Studio. This year, for my own family, I gave them a list of websites that they could shop at with the links to the brands I liked and I said 'anything from these websites on these links I will gladly accept.

This year I have created a potential buying list which will feature some of our own products and some from makers and websites I like. Click to enlarge the image to see the details. Here goes:



1. Canclini woven jacquard voile shirting - white with a kind of givenchy-esque geometric repeat, this understated but very beautiful fabric is ideal for shirts, shirt dresses for women, pop-overs and pocket squares. Canclini does not sell directly to the public but you can order their cloths through most reputable shirt makers. Reference 6738 0012 0101 . For more information go to: http://www.canclini.it

2. Aristotle Onassis may be dead but his sunglasses live on as legendary examples of eccentricity and a certain globe trotting swagger. Designed for Aristotle Onassis by French maker Francois Pinton, these glasses can be got from A Suitable Wardrobe in Texas. https://www.asuitablewardrobe.com/

3. Cutting up a limited edition Le Noeud Pocket Square for the sake of making a one off pair of silk eye shades was easier said than done. These eye shades are lined with a felted wool and the rear strap is enveloped in silk to ensure supreme comfort. Silk is made up of  fibroin and sericin, two proteins very similar to human skin which is why humans find silk so natural against the skin. Ideal for long haul flights, sleep ins and siestas. www.lenoeudpapillon.com

4 The silk is designed using the golden ratio principles to create a set of rolling waves fit for any summer outing. The silk is reversed with Mongolian cashmere by Zegna and finished with hand-tassels. www.lenoeudpapillon.com

5. On December 10th 1786 a strong gale wind forced the Danish ship "Metta Catharina" to seek shelter in Plymouth Sound in England but the prevailing winds forced the ship to break anchor and it struck Drakes Island before sinking. In 1973 a group of divers on Plymouth Sound found the wreckage which contained leather hides that originated from St. Petersburg. These reindeer hides had survived two centuries and been preserved in the black mud. The divers retrieved the leathers and in turn George Cleverley of London has turned the hides into unique products such as shoes, belts and leather trays and boxes. This stunning belt is a small piece of history - a time when the leathers were soaked in pits of willow bark and curried with birch oil. They are finished with unique cross hatched grain which has been embossed by hand. Find out more: https://www.asuitablewardrobe.com/

6. Iconic shoes are few and each maker holds onto a number of distinctive designs which often form the basis of the shoe makers DNA. When it comes to loafers you might think of Berluti's 'Warhols' or Lobb's 'Kiplings', or my absolute favourites, the standard penny loafer from George Cleverley with it's magnificent shape of toe box. A newer kid on the block but no less captivating is Gaziano & Girling, which many today refer to as 'the greatest shoe maker in the world'. These are their unique loafers, the 'Antibes' model, ideal for day to day wear and absolutely ideal for the Australian summer. https://www.gazianogirling.com/

7. Sloane Angell used to be a shoe designer for Marc Jacobs before he started his own brand 'Mercer Market'. Sloane is very talented and in his spare time he makes ceramics of equal distinction to his t-shirts and illustrations. We commissioned him to produce for us two designs in 2016, both of which were extremely well received. This scarf is hand-made in the south of Italy by artisan makers who specialise in reversing silk with cashmere and finishing the scarves with tassels. www.lenoeudpapillon.com

8. There is something about a velvet bow tie that prohibits many men from wearing them. It takes a certain type of personality to pull it off. A certain flair or charisma is needed because you can't fake a velvet bow tie, you either have the personality or you don't. This one is exceptional, made from a Holland & Sherry velvet and finished with a purple satin and green polka dot by Le Noeud Papillon. www.lenoeudpapillon.com



Tuesday, December 13, 2016

Richard Roxburgh For GQ Menswear Men Of The Year Awards 2016

My relationship with GQ Magazine was one of hostility when we began. It was just before the GFC and I was some pip-squeak parvenu who thought he had a self-entitled right to be featured in their magazine over and above the big European and American brands because I was making in Australia and because I was focusing on quality. In life I have learned that self-entitlement is a dangerous thing and can lead to great unhappiness. GQ often did nothing to support us and continued to remind me in emails that nobody could buy their content and if they didn't want to write content about us that was their God-given right ....

So in the end I spent a great deal of time writing my own blog content and generating my own following and hoped that one day they might see that I meant what I said. It was probably a good thing since it caused me to stay the course with keeping production small and local and trying our best to build our database one bow at a time. 

When eventually GQ saw that I wasn't mucking around they eventually included us in their magazine and this year, as it was last year, it was a privilege to see our bow ties on their Men Of The Year, not to mention this superlative shot of Richard Roxburgh which was styled by Brad Homes at GQ, who I think has a big future. 

And when we posted this particular image to our wall it was met with a comment from Brad who wrote 'best bow ties in the business'. We're still a niche marketed product, we're still making our bow ties in Australia, we still have no prospects of becoming the next Ralph Lauren - but hey, that's nice to know we got one product line right. Let us hope we crack the unisex market now with our silk eye shades!

Thank you Brad for the compliment and GQ for taking your time to appreciate what we do. It helped keep us on the straight and narrow.