Tuesday, August 31, 2010

Xenia Hejda - Bespoke Shirtmaker

At the same time as I met Salvatore and studied his books, I was also introduced to Xenia Hejda, who was making my friend's shirts at the same time. Xenia does full bespoke shirt making - that is, she does not use a block, each component is hand cut, with two to three fittings to get the cut right. She uses french seems on the side and can do any detail you like. Her prices are NOT CHEAP though. So buyer beware, unless you have the money you won't get the honey.

Prices start from $325 a shirt. If you take her your own fabric she can do a shirt at $250.00. I think this price is too high but I am told her workmanship shows itself in the final product.

In Sydney:
Level 3, Suit 38A
104 Bathurst Street,
Sydney, NSW, 2000
Phone: 9267 1632

Salvatore Finocchiaro - Bespoke Tailor - Sydney.

Every now and then you find a gem right under your nose where you never expected it to be. As you may or may not know, Holland & Sherry cloth is located in Bathurst Street, Sydney. Today a good friend of mine asked me if I'd like to meet his tailor. It turned out he worked in the same building as H&S.

Salvatore is a typical Italian bespoke tailor. He does not use a block, he uses the best canvas, the best felt and he has the best fabric books. Loro Piana, Scabal, Zegna, Holland & Sherry to name but a few. I would suggest going and seeing him. Prices start from $2200 for jackets. Around $4k for a suit.

Salvatore Finocchiaro
Suite 57, Level 5,
104 Bathurst Street, Sydney, NSW, 2000
Phone: 9267 6775

Saturday, August 28, 2010

Posted By Mr. Sarotrial


An update. LE NOEUD PAPILLON

Dear blog readers, whoever may pay attention to this page,

I thought I should tell you about the progress of the brand. There has been a good deal of interest sparked in the product since David Jones adopted the brand. It is actually remarkable the power of perception with people. Even though sales are doing well in David Jones, there is not necessarily a huge spike in activity, however, the mere mention that you are in David Jones to someone immediately turns their mind from thinking that you are exploring a hobby, to thinking that you are developing a business. David Jones has the kind of pull which switches peoples perception and that is a wonderful result from their unrivalled marketing.

In May I picked up a new silk supplier in Como. The new supplier, along with my existing contacts, has given me a breadth of range in silks that previously was not available to me. Each of the suppliers has the ability to develop my own designs, which I see as incredibly important to the success of the brand - to create an individual identity and exclusivity which will set Le Noeud Papillon apart from stock silk brands. Furthermore, although I always wanted to keep production in Australia, there are some things I just can't get made here, such as cravattes, 7 fold ties, corosive printing pochettes, cumerbands and scarves, which might have to be made through these contacts in Como. It is a shame that Australians don't make these things well enough to compete with the European brands and this is something I hope to develop over the medium term with the few remaining workrooms in Sydney.

I was highly impressed the other day when I heard that MJ BALE was having their YASS WOOL milled in JAPAN. I was just sad that we couldn't even process it here. It would be lovely to know that you could pick up a bale of wool at the farmgate and have it milled in Sydney. This government, if it ever forms, should foster that industry and make it competitive enough that we can export it to Asia. I would envisage that it's mostly machines that do the work, so I cannot see the reason why we could not be competitive in such an industry. It seems a shame to export the wool to Italy and then buy it back as finished product.

It has been an interesting journey to understand the variety of silks used, which silk works for a cravatte, which for a bow, what silks need an interlining, which shouldn't. How do you get a shape which works? How do you make it easier for the customer to tie his bow whilst developing a product which will still look unique in design. The butterfly shape was turned into a replica of a butterfly on one bow, the Papillon, whereas I then experimented with convex and concave shapes and came up with bows like the Vader and the Moustache. All of which don't necessarily lead to sales but which I hope, that when one wears it, it might just arrest the odd person who gives it a second thought. The question is, why does a bow have to be in the shape of a Batwing or a Butterfly? The answer is, it doesn't have to be. There are all sorts of things to you can do to a bow, from the choice of silk to the cutting of the shape, which can completely alter the look of the wearer or at least give him/her a complete uniqueness. There is something so Andy Warhol Campbells Soup about a tie. So rarely does a tie distract my eye and lead me to think 'Wow'. Whereas with bows I seem to always get excited.

The first range of pochettes will be out next month in David Jones. There are some already in stock at Robert Burton on Queen Street in Woollahra. Robert's store is a bit further up from MJ Bale and Herringbone. Robert is probably the most professional and meticulous of the independent stores I stock with. He was able to decipher exactly which bow worked with which look and when I dropped the first stock I was very happy to know they were in capable hands. I'd suggest anyone who's East of the city to try and pop in. Robert has an interesting range of products including a new range of Dutch bicycles coming soon.

Where to from here? I am hoping to develop a range of cravattes and kerchiefs which should be available in about two weeks. One look which I think would be ultra hot, is to create a look with my white cravatte with black polka dots, using it with a white dinner shirt and black velvet smoking jacket for the Spring Ball season. I think a cravatte at a ball, in lieu of a bow, would be a challenging casual look for black tie.

Regards,
N.

Tass Revisited and a new look from Sydney



I very much like the look of the guy on the left. He looks a little Russian adolescent, or maybe Polish, I can't quite make out where I have seen a look like that. I think it might remind me of my school book texts depicting Russian revolutionairy youth culture during Glasnost.





Above, ever the cad, Hayden Kemp sports the new Tass Revisited bow which is made from a Mogador silk which is made with a cotton warp and a silk weft giving a punchy brilliant finish to the silk. There is very little stock, so numbers are very much limited.

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

David Jones Market Street Sydney



I had the pleasure of seeing my product in the window of the Market Street Store so I snapped a couple of pictures with my blackberry.


Two New Shapes - Vader and Handlebar


Both these new shapes will be available online at www.lenoeudpapillon.com but will not be run as a limited edition and discontinued after that.

Monday, August 2, 2010

Le Noeud Papillon Finds A Home In Paris

Le Noeud Papillon will be selling it's bow ties to the French finally! Shipton (which sells shoes and and will be taking on the bow ties in their two stores. Details are listed below.

11 BOULEVARD RAPSAIL
75007 PARIS
TEL + 33 (0) 1 45 48 57 26
FAX +33 (0) 1 45 49 09 51

ESPACE HAUSSMANN
124 BOULEVARD HAUSSMANN
75008 PARIS
TEL +33 (0) 1 44 69 03 11
FAX +33 (0) 1 44 69 00 81

David Jones Now Stocks Le Noeud Papillon

David Jones now stocks Le Noeud Papillon in both their flagship stores in both Market Street, Sydney and Bourke Street, Melbourne. The range is comprised of the best stock available within the limited edition range of bows offered by Le Noeud Papillon.

David Jones has recently featured the 'Dieu' bow within their marketing campaign and will continue to be early adopters of changes within the Le Noeud Papillon collection, with Le Noeud Papillon exclusive to David Jones department stores across Australia.

For more information please see www.davidjones.com.au .

If you cannot find your bow within David Jones, you can always contact Le Noeud Papillon by visiting www.lenoeudpapillon.com for our bespoke service as well as to view our existing collection online.
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...